I went for sardines. Came back with a whole bream because the man at the corner stall raised his eyebrows in a particular way. Charmoula on the bones, a bed of tomato and preserved lemon, into a low oven. Forty minutes, no hurry. The kitchen smells of garlic and coriander and the sea.
kitchen
From the Kitchen
What was on the stove, what came home from the souk, what made it onto the table.
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The first harira
The pot has been on since noon. The whole house smells of cumin and tomato and that cinnamon-at-the-end thing that only happens in Ramadan. Zahra makes hers thicker than mine. I keep adjusting toward her version, year on year. It is almost there.
Harira
serves six
For the pot
200g brown lentils, rinsed150g chickpeas, soaked overnight1 large onion, fine-chopped4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and crushedA handful of celery leaves (not stalks)A big bunch each of coriander and parsley1 tsp cumin, 1 tsp turmeric, 1/2 tsp ground ginger1/4 tsp cinnamon, right at the endA pinch of saffronOlive oil, salt, pepperTo finish
2 tbsp flour mixed with a little cold waterLemon, dates, bread, at the tableSweat the onion in olive oil. Tomatoes, celery leaves, herbs, spices in — a couple of minutes until the kitchen smells ridiculous.
Lentils and chickpeas, water to cover (about two litres). Bring up, drop to a simmer, walk away for forty-five minutes.
Cinnamon now. Stream the flour-water in slowly, stirring, until it just coats a spoon. Lemon at the table.
A jar of preserved lemons
Small Moroccan lemons from the souk this morning, the thin-skinned kind. Quartered through the top so they open like a flower but stay attached at the base. Pack hard with salt, jar them tight, lemon juice over. Six weeks. The pantry will smell like all the good things at once.
Preserved Lemons
one two-litre jar
You need
10–12 small thin-skinned lemons (more if your jar is wide)A generous handful of coarse sea saltJuice of 4–5 extra lemons, to top upA clean two-litre jar with a tight lidQuarter each lemon from the top, almost through, leaving the base attached. Stuff each one with salt.
Layer into the jar, pressing down hard so the juice rises. Top up with extra lemon juice until the lemons are submerged.
Lid on. Pantry. Turn the jar upside down once a week. Six weeks before they are tender. Use the rind, not the flesh.
Lamb dumplings, with preserved lemon
Tuesday, January. Lamb and preserved lemon, folded into thin wonton skins. The pleat is the same as my grandmother's. The kitchen smells of cumin and sesame at once. Zahra walks through, peers, says nothing, smiles.
Lamb & Preserved Lemon Dumplings
about thirty · serves four
Filling
500g lamb shoulder, hand-minced4 spring onions, sliced thinA thumb of ginger, grated2 tbsp soy sauce1 tbsp preserved lemon paste1 tsp sesame oilA pinch of white pepperTo finish
Round wonton wrappersWater for sealingChilli oil and black vinegarMix the filling with your hands. Don't overwork it.
Wet the rim of a wrapper, drop a teaspoon of filling, fold to a half-moon, pleat the seam from one corner across.
Steam over rolling water for eight minutes. Eat at the counter, chilli oil, black vinegar.
When the kitchen is closed.
Morocco · 4 April
The cat and the fountain
The fountain talks to itself at night. The cat watches Siena from the lemon tree. A small derb truce.
Travel · 8 April
A week in Essaouira
A week in Essaouira — sardines on the grill, the wind, the same blue everywhere.
Morocco · 2 March
The cannon, at iftar
The cannon from the Koutoubia, then the spoons. Every house, all at once.