Derb 37

a journal from a house in the medina

Kitchen · feast days

Feast Days

Eid, Ramadan, the wedding three streets over. The cooking that takes two days and feeds the neighbourhood.

Lamb dumplings, with preserved lemon

Tuesday, January. Lamb and preserved lemon, folded into thin wonton skins. The pleat is the same as my grandmother's. The kitchen smells of cumin and sesame at once. Zahra walks through, peers, says nothing, smiles.

Lamb & Preserved Lemon Dumplings

about thirty · serves four

Filling

500g lamb shoulder, hand-minced4 spring onions, sliced thinA thumb of ginger, grated2 tbsp soy sauce1 tbsp preserved lemon paste1 tsp sesame oilA pinch of white pepper

To finish

Round wonton wrappersWater for sealingChilli oil and black vinegar

Mix the filling with your hands. Don't overwork it.

Wet the rim of a wrapper, drop a teaspoon of filling, fold to a half-moon, pleat the seam from one corner across.

Steam over rolling water for eight minutes. Eat at the counter, chilli oil, black vinegar.

Questions

On feast days.

What is eaten at Eid al-Adha?
Lamb, every part of it. Mechoui — whole lamb slow-roasted in a pit oven — for the first day. Tanjia, brochettes, and offal stews on the days after.
What is eaten at Eid al-Fitr?
Sweets first — chebakia, ghoriba, msemen with honey, baghrir — before any savoury food. The fast is broken in butter and sugar.
What is mechoui?
Whole lamb, slow-roasted for several hours in a pit oven (or, in the medina, in the embers of a hammam fire). The shoulder pulls apart with two fingers. Eid food.

Notes that touch feast days from elsewhere in the kitchen.